How did Venice control its fish-markets in the past?

A white marble plaque at the Loggia Grande at Rialto

Today It is still possible to map topologically the interior subdivision of the Rialto market just by following the remained toponyms such as the "Erbaria" for the vegetable market, the "Drapperia", for the sale of fabric and silk, the "Beccaria" for the sale of meats, the "Caseria" for cheese and the "Pescheria" for fish.

Although fish was sold in other parts of Venice, Rialto has always been the most important one, where a wide range of fish has always been sold starting from 1097.

On the wall of the Loggia Grande there is an old white plaque, which includes a list of fish names with their sizes to be followed and to be sold by the minute. The names of the species are written in Venetian dialect. For example the branzin is the sea-bass and its length was once 12 cm, today 25 cm, the peocio , mussel, from 3 cm to 5 cm.

What does this mean? With an edict from 1173 Venice decided to regulate the size of the fish that was sold in the city. Consuming fish at a young age means compromising the natural balance of the species, so in order to preserve fish reproduction. Length and seasonality became part of the same target. In case of non-observance of those rules, severe punishments were imposed.

The Buranelli biscuits from the island of Burano

From fishermen’s cookies to a local specialty

Venetian local cuisine offers a wide range of amazing desserts such as: tiramisù, a coffee-flavoured cake, fritelle, galani and castagnole just eaten during Carnival, the hard baked baicoli and the coconut-stuffed arnotts.

Among all of those desserts the Buranelli occupy a special place in Venetian pastry, because they have never suffered from any culinary “contamination”, of which Venetian cuisine is typical, due to the availability of many exotic products.

Eaten once just at Easter, they are the most famous cookies of Venice. You can find them all over in Venetian pastries, but as tradition recalls those butter cookies were prepared by the fishermen’s wives of the island of Burano for their husbands. Having the Buranelli a good durability in terms of conservation, they were brought on board as men stayed away from home for several days. Those biscuits provided them with energy being the main ingredients eggs, flour, sugar and butter. Their golden yellow color is achieved through the use of many eggs.

They have different names: buranelli, bussolà or buranei and essi. The name “bussolà”comes from the Venetian dialect “buso” which means hole, “ buranei” because they are made on the island of Burano, and “essi” because they recall the s-hape of the Grand Canal.

Today they are tasted mainly by dipping them in white wine or coffee to soften them. If you happen to visit the island of Burano, do not forget to try them!

Introduction to our blog

Our blog will be dealing with food and wine and a section will be dedicated to pastry. The main idea is to suggest Venetian recipes and explain when it is possible some interesting anecdotes and facts that might be peculiar and related. We hope you will enjoy reading it and that you will succeed when you are in Venice to taste some recipes we offer you.

When you think of Venice you think of its unique shape, of its history, art and architecture and very seldom of its gastronomic tradition. Due to its geographical position between land and sea, Venetian cuisine has been influenced by various cultures and is completely different from the rest of the Veneto region. Thanks to its trade with the Eastern world, Venice imported tons of spices every year, that were resold in the West. Pepper, raisins, ginger, saffron, nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves were and are used in the kitchens to flavor both fish and meat.

The presence of spices adds an exotic taste to a wide range of dishes that stand out because of the use of very simple ingredients. It does not mean that they are easy to prepare!

Moreover, fresh and quality products in step with the season are preferred if possible to other ingredients. Over the years the Rialto food market has become an institution for locals and also for food lovers. When you come to Venice, we suggest you eat like we do and that you try different specialties and delicacies not forgetting to drink a glass of good wine. It is hard to make a choice among the many recipes that you can eat at home or at a local restaurant. Some of the most famous ones are: Sarde in saor: marinated sardines Baccalà mantecato: Venetian salted cod Risotto al nero di seppia: risotto and black ink stew Risi e bisi: rice and peas Bigoli in salsa: whole-wheat bigoli pasta, onion and salt-cure fish Fegato alla veneziana: Venetian liver Moleche: lagoon crabs