Autumn Flavors in Venice: What to Eat in the Lagoon

Autumn in Venice is a magical season: the city is slightly less crowded than in summer, the light becomes warmer, and the air carries the scents of seasonal markets. It’s the perfect time to enjoy the lagoon’s traditional dishes, combining fresh seafood with seasonal ingredients.

Seafood Delights

The lagoon always provides fresh seafood, and in autumn, specialties like cuttlefish, baby octopus, and mussels take center stage. Cuttlefish in its ink is a classic ingredient for unique first courses, such as the famous spaghetti al nero di seppia. Seafood risottos, sometimes enhanced with pumpkin or autumn mushrooms, are also a must-try this season.

Mushrooms and Pumpkin

Autumn is the time of the land as well: mushrooms, chestnuts, and pumpkin become stars of Venetian kitchens. Pumpkin risotto is a classic, while mushrooms are often paired with fresh pasta or served as a simple yet flavorful side dish.

Seasonal Sweets

Desserts follow the rhythm of the season too. Chestnuts, apples, and figs are the base for traditional sweets like fruit tarts or crisp cookies. Tiramisu, though available year-round, can be enriched with autumn fruit syrups or dark chocolate for a seasonal twist.

Wines and Liqueurs

Pairing meals with wines from the Veneto region is essential: full-bodied reds and aromatic whites enhance lagoon dishes. Local liqueurs, such as nocino made from green walnuts, are perfect for warming up on cooler evenings.

Autumn in Venice, therefore, is not only a feast for the eyes among canals and narrow streets but also a delight for the palate: a season where the authentic flavors of the lagoon and Venetian countryside meet in simple yet flavorful dishes.

The Island of San Michele, the Cemetery in Venice

In the quiet waters of the Venetian Lagoon lies San Michele, the island of the dead, Venice’s unique cemetery island.

San Michele was originally accessible only by boat. In the 19th century, as the number of visitors grew and maintenance of the island became more demanding, a simple wooden bridge was constructed to connect the island to the main city.

The bridge’s purpose was practical: it allowed easier transport of people, coffins, and supplies, especially during funerals and commemorative ceremonies. Over time, the bridge had to be rebuilt or reinforced because the wooden structure was constantly affected by the lagoon’s tides, humidity, and salt air, which weakened the materials.

The decision to avoid building a permanent structure was made in the 19th century because the island is a sacred cemetery, and authorities wanted to preserve its peaceful and solemn character. Moreover, the lagoon’s shifting waters made long-lasting construction difficult.

Today, temporary or modern bridges are sometimes installed for practical reasons: to allow safe access for maintenance, ceremonies, or visitors, especially during high tides or special events. Modern engineering allows these structures to be safe and minimally invasive, respecting the spiritual and historical value of the island while making it accessible when needed.

In this spirit, a new temporary bridge has just been opened, connecting San Michele to Venice for a short period thai is All Saints. This allows visitors to reach the island safely during the holidays honoring the deceased, while preserving the sacred and serene atmosphere of this unique cemetery.

Visit to the Garden of the Redentore

Next to the majestic Church of the Redentore on the island of Giudecca lies a remarkable and long-hidden place: the great monastic garden once tended by the Capuchin friars. For centuries, this vast green space, enclosed by high walls and silence, remained inaccessible to the public, preserving within it a precious balance of nature, spirituality, and humble labor.

The Capuchin friars, who have always inhabited the convent adjoining the church, cared for this garden with devotion and simplicity. Among the beds of aromatic herbs, fruit trees, and seasonal vegetables, they found a space for meditation and prayer, but also for service and charity. The harvest from the garden was often shared with the city’s poor, in keeping with the spirit of humility and generosity that has always characterized the Capuchin order.

Over the centuries, however, the garden suffered periods of neglect and decay. High tides and flooding — especially the exceptional acqua alta of 2019 — caused serious damage, submerging the entire area and destroying much of the soil and vegetation. Extensive restoration work was required, lasting several years, to bring the garden back to its former beauty and vitality.

Today, thanks to the dedication of the friars and the support of local institutions and volunteers, the Garden of the Redentore has come back to life. Visitors can finally enter and discover a corner of Venice where time seems to stand still — a place of peace and quiet, where nature, art, and faith exist in perfect harmony. Walking among the rows of plants and herbs, one can still sense the silent presence of the friars, who for centuries have cultivated not only the land, but also the spirit.